As mentioned in my last post I started to make fauxlags in order to learn how to spin long draw more easily. And so I decided to take notes on the different types of fauxlags I made and which was easier for me to spin with. I hesitate to call this a tutorial because I am probably not making fauxlags correctly but when it comes to spinning as long as you enjoy doing it, who cares what is right or not? And sorry for the terrible lighting conditions, I took these photos during my study break at school and the cubicles there are have horrible flickering fluorescent lights.
For these fauxlags I used US 13 needles (9 mm for us metric folks :D) and some merino/nylon commercial top. The silver knitting needle (in the back) is a US 6 (4.25 mm) needle.
Predraft the fibre width-wise, the left is how the fibre looked before and the right is how it looks after I spread it out a bit. I don’t think I had to spread it out as wide as I did but I was bored and having too much fun. This makes it easier to draft your fauxlag versus not spreading out the fibres. Overall the method is just to place a needle on the fibre, roll it once or a few times and then break the attached from the roll.
For the second fauxlag I wanted to see what it would be like if I used a smaller needle. Also as you can tell from the picture I pulled out the fibre (from the commercial top) and placed it in a row on the table, making sure that the fibres slightly overlapped each other. Instead of using both US 13 needles I used one US 13 and US 6 needle to roll up the fibre.
Fauxlag #3 is similar to #2 in that I pulled out fibre and laid it in a thin layer on the table. However instead of just laying the fibre horizontally, I also added a layer of fibre overlapping on top so see if this made a difference.
Finally fauxlag #4. This method is the same as #3, but you can see a better image of how I laid the fibre both horizontally and vertically in picture 1. The only difference is that I only used the one US 6 needle to roll up the fibre. This was not easy to roll up and took a few tries to get it on the needle! To make it easier I would try using two smaller needle to help secure the fibre before rolling.
So after finishing up 4 different styles of fauxlags I decided to spin each of them on my supported spindle. I am using a hybrid version of supported long draw and park & draft so obviously what works for me may be the opposite for others.
Fauxlag #1 drafted easily and was easy to spin with. The only problem I had was that it collapsed and started falling apart from its rolled form once I was halfway through it.
Fauxlag #2 was even easier to draft than #1 (I suspect it is due to having a thinner layer of fibre) and was super quick to finish. This process of pulling out the fibre and rolling takes much longer though, and so I would have to dedicate more time into preparing this type of fauxlag.
Fauxlag #3 wasn’t as easy to draft as the previous two, but it wasn’t terrible either. I was surprised it wasn’t more difficult to spin with seeing that there was another layer of fibre in it versus fauxlag #2.
Fauxlag #4 was the one I really wanted to love because it looked so much like punis! Unlike the other three it felt much more substantial. However, I didn’t like spinning with it! I felt that it didn’t draft out easily and the drafting zone was pulled solely from the inner core of the fauxlag causing it to collapse halfway through.
In the end I would probably try to make more fauxlags similar to #1 or #2 because of the ease of drafting. I will still probably work on different ways of making fauxlags until I end up buying some handcards to play around with!